On Beef Jerky

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Notes and observations around making beef jerky.

Meat

Leaner is generally better. Fats in the meat turn rancid and spoil the final product, with fattier cuts spoiling sooner than more lean cuts. Fattier cuts also tend to have more collagen and connective tissue, which is harder to render at dehydration temperatures. This lends to a tougher, stringier chew.

In order of my preferences:

  • Lean Flank
  • Eye round
  • Bottom round (London broil)
  • Top round
  • Brisket flat
  • Skirt

Slicing

When meat dehydrates, the fibers in the muscle dessicate and contract, making the final product chewy and sometimes fibrous. When preparing meats for jerking, slicing the meat across the grain shortens the muscle fibers and connective tissues, allowing the muscle to expel more liquid but remain tender. Slicing meats along the grain tends to render a tougher, more fibrous product.

If slicing with the grain, you may want to tenderize the meat first with a meat hammer, or use a meat tenderizer in the marinade. This will help to break up the long muscle fibers and connective tissues and muscle fibers that make the meat chewy.

Some meats like Flank or Skirt are striated muscles, with bundles of muscle fibers running the length of the cut. When jerked, these cuts may tear or break while dehydrating if cut directly perpendicular to the grain. These cuts in particular work well when slices on a bias against the grain.

Marinade

The meat can be marinated in either a wet brine, or dry rub marinated rub overnight Many of the wet marinade recipes I’ve researched seem rely heavily on Soy sauce and Worcestershire sauce for their salt and umami. Soy sauce contains around 15% salt by weight, depending on the brand and style, and glutamates that give the flavor that “deep, dark roundness” called umami.

Worcestershire contains about 3% salt by weight. It also contains glutamates derived from onion and anchovy. Worcestershire sauce is sweeter than soy sauce, and has a blend of peppers and spices.

Generally, recipes seem to fall around 12% salt and 6% sugar by weight. Where water is added, additional salt is added to maintain 12% salinity.

Note: Sea water is between 5% and 7% salt by weight. Jerky marinades tend to be saltier in part to help cure and tenderize the meat. Many cuts of beef stand up well to a heavy salting.

In my recipes, I mainly rely on a 2:1 blend of Soy Sauce and Tamari, with one additional part of Worcestershire sauce. The combination gives a savory depth without over-expressing the soy flavors.

For sweetness, I use either honey or brown sugar depending in the recipe, though I have considered molasses, teriyaki and Mirin. I tend to like a more savory jerky, so I stick closer to 6% total sugar. Many prefer a sweeter product (e.g., teriyaki) and may find sugar 8% to 10% by weight more palatable.

The remainder of the marinade is spice and aromatics. Many marinades rely on granulated onion and garlic as the backbone, leveraging different pepper blends to round out the flavors. Depending on your preferences, you can also add aromatic herbs such as oregano, thyme or rosemary, and pickling spices such as ginger, allspice, mace or turmeric.

Sometimes liquid smoke is added, if not drying in a smoker.

Curing salts

Some recipes call for curing salt in the form of Morton Tenderquick, or Prague Powder. Curing salts contain nitrates that help to preserve the final product, protecting against spores and bacteria that contribute to botulism and other food borne illnesses. Cured meats have a longer shelf life, and may not require refrigeration.

Tenderquick and Prague Powder are not interchangeable in recipes. Carefully read the instructions for both, and follow the addition rates for the recipes carefully.

I use Prague powder #1 in my marinades at a 0.5% by weight.

Dehydrating

The dehydration process removes moisture from the meat both in the form of water, and in rendered fats that drip from the meat itself. Meat will lose between 50% and 60% of its weight through the dehydration process. That is, a 2 pound cut of beef will render about 1 pound of jerky. Most jerky sits at around 10% water by weight, with drier meats being more brittle and chewy.

When drying the meat, it should be heated between 165°F and 200°F, with good air circulation. The goal is to pasteurize the meat by raising the internal temperature of the above 145°F and holding it for several hours. This process kills any remaining microorganisms that could contribute. to food borne diseases. Fats and collagens begin to render and melt at 165°F, further tenderizing and desiccating the meat. Certain proteins in the meat begin to denature above 190°F and water boils at 212°F, both of which change the character of the final product.

Cooking times are always approximate, as drying time varies with the particular style of cut, thickness of the slices, water content, fat content, air temperature and humidity. Begin checking the meat as early as the earliest estimates, and remove any finished pieces when the complete.

However the product is dried, it is finished when the meat is stiff enough to support itself when held out parallel to the ground, and bends without cracking. Expect some carry-over, as when cooking a roast or a bird. Be careful not to dry the meat too much, as it can become too chewy or leathery.

Oven

The most widely available method to dry jerky is in the oven. Lay the strips out in a single layer and spaced to allow airflow on a cooling rack over a rimmed sheet. Preheat the oven to 175°F and place the pan inside. Maintain heat until the meat is dried, about 5-10 hours

Food dehydrator

Lay strips out in the dehydrator trays in single layers, allowing adequate space between the strips for air flow. Set the dehydrator for 165°F and allow 6-8 hours to dry, rotating stacks occasionally.

Smoker

A smoker provides a more authentic, if more labor intensive drying process. The goal here is to provide a low, even heat, maintaining between 165°F and 190°F, and to impart a smoke flavor without adding too much. Electric smokers in particular can impart a resinous, almost acrid flavor to a product if smoked too hot, or for too long. With wood smoke, plenty is plenty, and less is more.

As with the oven, arrange the slices of meat on a cooling rack over a drip tray, leaving space between for air and smoke to circulate. Preheat the smoker to 170°F, and place the tray.

If using a wet brine, allow 90 minutes without smoke for the meat to sweat and the fats begin to render. After 90 minutes add enough wood to allow for 30 minutes to 60 minutes of smoke abd monitor for a thin blue smoke. After 1 hour, remove the wood and allow 6-10 hours for the meat to dry.

If using a dry brine, add a water pan for the duration.

Beef Jerky Original #2

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More of a spicy, savory jerky with a touch of sweet. This recipe uses flank steak, cut on a bias across the grain.

Ingredients

Per 2 lb of meat:

  • 2 oz water
  • 2 oz all-purpose soy
  • 1 oz dark soy (Tamari)
  • 1 oz Worcestershire sauce
  • 1 oz honey
  • 2 tbsp Paprika
  • 1 tsp Black pepper
  • ½ tsp Cayenne
  • ½ tsp Ground oregano
  • ½ tsp Ground ginger
  • ¼ tsp Turmeric
  • ¼ tsp Prague Powder #1

Instructions

Start with a lean flank steak, approximately 2 lbs net weight. Trim fat and silver skin. Slice into strips about ⅜” thick on a diagonal bias across the grain. Trim longer strips to length, and place strips in a gallon zip lock freezer bag.

Whisk remaining ingredients and pour over the contents in the bag. Distribute marinade throughout the meat strips. Refrigerate 8-10 hours, or overnight, redistributing the marinade several times for an even cure.

Remove strips from bag and arrange on a cooling rack, blotting off excess marinade.

Dry strips at 165°F in a food dehydrator or smoker until the strips are stiff and bend but do not snap, about 8 or 10 hours.

Goulash #1

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Suitable for stuffing bell peppers

Ingredients

  • 1 lb 85% lean ground beef
  • 1 medium onion, dice
  • 3 cloves garlic, crushed and minced
  • 1 can tomato sauce, 15 oz
  • 1 can tomato paste, 6 oz
  • 1½ cups beef broth
  • 1 cup long grain rice
  • 1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce
  • 4 tbsp olive oil, divided
  • 2 tsp soy sauce
  • 1 tsp fish sauce
  • 1 tbsp sweet paprika
  • ½ tbsp ground oregano
  • 1 tsp ground mustard
  • 1 tsp black pepper
  • ½ tsp white pepper
  • ½ tsp ground nutmeg

Instructions

Add 2 tsp olive oil to a 5 quart pot and heat until shimmering. Add uncooked rice and coat with oil, toasting rice until fragrant and beginning to brown. Add onions and saute until sweating, but not yet translucent, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and continue to saute until fragrant, one more minute.

Combine ground beef and cook until just browned.

Combine remaining ingredients, maintaining medium heat until simmering. Cover, reduce heat to low and maintain simmer 20-25 minutes, stirring occasionally, until rice is tender.

Serve topped with cheese, or use to stuff bell peppers.

Corned Beef Brine (Dry brine)

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Specialty equipment: This process requires a vacuum sealer and Prague Powder #1 curing salt.

The amounts for the salt, sugar and Prague Powder are based on the mass of meat to be cured, and given as ratios per kilogram of meat.

Ingredients

  • Beef brisket flat, about 5lb (2.2kg) after trimming
  • Kosher salt, 4.5% by weight or 45g/kg
  • Brown sugar, 1.5% by weight or 15g/kg
  • Prague Powder #1, 0.5% by weight or 5g/kg
  • 2 tbsp black peppercorn
  • 2 tbsp coriander seed
  • 2 tbsp yellow mustard seed
  • 1 tbsp whole allspice
  • 1 tbsp fennel seed
  • 2 cinnamon sticks, broken up
  • 2 tbsp granulated garlic
  • 1 tbsp ground ginger

Instructions

Select a brisket flat with even thickness and minimal hard fat. Trim brisket, removing hard fat, silver skin and extra fat from the fat cap. Leave approximately ¼ in of fat on the fat cap.

Weigh the trimmed brisket and calculate the measures for salt, sugar and Prague Powder. Combine salt, sugar, Prague Powder, garlic and ginger in a bowl. Working on a rimmed baking sheet coat brisket on all sides, using all of the cure. Brisket may need to rest and “tack up” for all of the cure to adhere. Excess cure will be added to the vacuum bag before sealing.

Measure out spices and blitz several seconds in a spice or blade grinder, or coarsely crush in a mortar. Sprinkle spices over the meat on both sides paying more attention to the underside, opposite of the fat cap.

Place meat in a vacuum bag and collect any loose cure or spices remaining on the baking sheet into the bag. Spread excess cure in the bag, ensuring even coverage. Vacuum then seal the bag, and refrigerate up to 10 days. Flip the package over daily and gently massage the liquid to redistribute.

Remove meat from vacuum bag after 7 or 10 days, and rinse in cold water. Meat may be cooked immediately, or resealed and frozen.

Soaking recommendations

Corned beef will be very salty straight from the brine. When braising or boiling, the meat will seek an equilibrium with the cooking liquid. If the cooking method uses unsalted or low salt liquid, soaking may not be necessary. Refer to the recipe for soaking recommendations.

If roasting, smoking or cooking sous vide, the meat should be soaked in cold fresh water for one hour to reduce the salt. For further salt reduction, soak up to 2 hours changing the water every 20 to 30 minutes.

Adapted from Serious Eats: Corned Beef Brisket, Potatoes, Cabbage, and Carrots for St. Patrick’s Day Recipe

Country Scramble Breakfast Skillet

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Serves 4.

Ingredients

  • 6 large eggs, beaten
  • 1 cup shredded cheese blend (cheddar, jack, blanco)
  • ¼ lb uncased, mild Italian sausage, seasoned
  • ¼ lb thick cut bacon, diced
  • ¾ cup Baby Bella or button mushroom, diced
  • 3 medium Eastern or Russet potatoes, peeled and diced
  • ⅓ cup onion or shallot, diced
  • ⅓ cup green bell pepper, diced
  • ⅓ cup red bell pepper, diced
  • 1 clove garlic, crushed and minced
  • ½ tsp sweet paprika
  • ½ tsp ground oregano
  • ½ tsp ground sage
  • ½ tsp ground black pepper

Instructions

Preheat oven to 375°F.

Wash and peel potatoes, dicing into ½ inch cubes. Place potatoes in small saucepan and cover with salted water. Raise heat to a simmer, parboiling potatoes about 5 minutes. Remove from heat and allow to cool 5 more minutes. Drain and set aside.

Prepare eggs in a small bowl, scrambled and set aside.

In a 10″ cast iron skillet, combine sausage, paprika, oregano, sage and black pepper. Brown over medium heat until barely pink. Remove to a bowl, leaving up to a tablespoon of fat in the pan.

Add bacon and mushroom to the skillet, sauté until bacon is just browned and mushrooms sweat. Add onion and bell peppers, and sauté until onions begin to sweat but not brown or turn translucent. Add garlic and saute until fragrant. Remove from heat.

Add sausage and potatoes to the skillet and toss to combine. Pour egg batter over top, tilting pan to distribute batter throughout the medley and breaking up dry pockets with a silicone spatula. Cover with shredded cheese.

Place skillet directly in oven and bake at 375°F for approximately 15 minutes, until cheese is lightly browned and bubbling. The eggs will have set when a toothpick draws clean.

Serving suggestion: garnish with salsa.